Young women embarking on a new artisanal food venture has become a familiar story. Susana Columna and Gloribell Tavera, both of whom lost their jobs in television, now make sofrito, a base for Latino dishes that is as essential as roux in New Orleans or mirepoix in France. (Soffrito is the Italian version.) Though sofrito is often made with pork or pork fat, Chulita’s Famous Sofrito, produced in Long Island City, Queens, is vegetarian. Unlike a mass-market sofrito, it has no added starches, thickeners or other additives. There are two varieties: a verde, with bell peppers, garlic, lemon juice, vinegar and herbs; and a spiced one that is ruddy, dense and less moist, with similar ingredients as well as a good dose of paprika and cumin. Use them to get that bean and pork stew, chicken casserole or paella going; they can also serve as salsa, garnish or embellishment for a bowl of soup.
Chulita’s Famous Sofrito, chulitasfamous.com, is sold at Zeytuna, Brooklyn Fare and in some Westside Market and Garden of Eden stores, $9 to $10 for 10 ounces, and $12.99 from igourmet.com.
