Courtesy Casa Enrique
It was the ceviche that cinched it: I knew I’d return to Casa Enrique, and soon. At this Long Island City Mexican restaurant, slices of fresh fluke caught that morning off the coast of Montauk, Long Island, were bathed in lime juice with a brash mix of green chilies, red onions and fresh cilantro. The temptation to tip the bowl into my mouth and slurp the remaining broth in full view of the lunch crowd was hard to resist. I opted for a spoon instead.
The two-year-old, Michelin-starred Casa Enrique is one of the few gifts that gentrification has brought to this fast-changing Queens neighborhood, which is only a train stop away from Grand Central Station. When I visited on a recent Saturday afternoon, the place was crowded and redolent with the aroma of roast meat, spices, and lime. A group of eight was seated at a long table in the front, talking, drinking, and laughing, with forks extended to taste each other’s food.
Chef Cosme Aguilar, a cherubic thirtysomething, is trained in the art of French cuisine. He has returned to his roots at Casa Enrique, drawing inspiration from the cuisine of his native Chiapas. And, most importantly, he’s kept his food affordable. “My dishes come from family recipes and keep the authentic flavors of traditional Mexican cuisine,” he says.
The most popular dish in Aguilar’s repertoire is the classic southern Mexican Cochinito Chiapaneco—roasted pork ribs marinated in guajillo chilies. I favor the Chamorro de Borrego al Huaxamole, which is a lamb shank braised for five hours in avocado leaves, onion, garlic, wine, and spices. Try the enchiladas Doña Blanca—named after Aguilar’s mother, who gave him the recipe—and, for dessert, dig into the voluptuous Mexican Chocolate Pot de Crème served with Maria cookies.
Casa Enrique, 5-48 49th Avenue, Long Island City, Queens; 347-448-6040
